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1966 Ford Mustang

Sale price: $16,000.00 make an offer

Car location: Edgewater, Maryland, United States

Sale type: Fixed price listing

Technical specifications, photos and description:

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1966 Ford Mustang for sale

Current customer rating: current rating for this car(2.1) based on 20 votes


Please read carefully, I want us to have a smooth and transparent experience. First is an overview of upgrades and what's next, then some instructions on how to make this a smooth process if you want to conduct inspections, etc.


1966 Ford Mustang Coupe – overhauled to daily driver! More than $30k in updates and upgrades over the 5 years I've owned and driven it. This car drives, handles, and sounds amazing, and it's incredibly fast. Suspension is dialed in. This gorgeous, badass classic is as dependable as any modern car, and a lot easier to maintain! I have not done anything cosmetically with the body. It looks great, but has signs of wear up close, including some body and frame rust and a patch of mismatched white. It's the next step that unfortunately I won't be able to complete.


New Ford Racing 302ci V8 crate motor with Boss racing heads and completely rebuilt original C4 transmission and rear end (specs below). For the last 20k miles, this has been my daily driver and I've taken it on a few trips from Annapolis, MD, to Atlanta, GA and Manhattan, NY. I had the 8" rear end professionally rebuilt and replaced the rear gear ratio to .355 for better throttle response. Brevard and Son in Maryland installed Wilwood front disk brakes, master cylinder and lines; completely replaced the steering; added dual exhaust headers and true header-back dual exhaust; added new Hotchkis (Fox) and Total Control suspension; and lots of other basic overhaul items. 

Everything under the hood is new. Most of the interior has been reworked, but mainly with an eye on function, as this has been my daily driver. Safer seats, seatbelts, headlights, wipers, etc., have all made a big difference, as well as the sound system. 

As you'll see with the list of updates and upgrades below, it's got everything except a final paint job. The rear frame rails were rotted, and I had them professionally replaced, along with strengthening several other areas along the unibody. The engine swap was also professionally conducted by an ASE certified technician. Unfortunately, the original 289 was not suitable for rebuild. I had the C4 rebuilt by Glen Burnie Transmission, Maryland, a high-end transmission shop with a racing legacy.


As you will see with the below list, this is not a tire-kicker special – this is a legitimate daily driver with true hot rod potential. It is my current daily driver and is ready for its new home.


Here are the highlights (all parts are new and professionally installed):


-       Ford Performance Boss M-6007-X302E crate engine, 340 HP

-       MSD electronic ignition, coil, module

-       Holley 570 CFM Street Avenger 4 barrel carburetor, electric choke

-       Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap intake manifold 

-       Edelbrock Performer RPM mechanical fuel pump (110 gph)

-       Wilwood front disk brakes and master cylinder, new rear drum brake system and lines (complete)

-       Moroso 7qt front sump oil pan

-       American Racing 17” wheels, Shelby Gt 350 reproduction

-       Replaced all steering components with stiffer sway bar

-       Doug's racing headers

-       American Thunder header-back dual exhaust and Corsa tips

-       Aluminum Scott Drake radiator with matching electric adjustable fan and shroud

-       PA Performance 90A 4G alternator and bracket

-       March pulleys

-       Total Control rear leaf springs, shackles

-       Dynacorn rear frame rails and subframe connectors

-       Hotchkis (Fox) front and rear shocks with Scott Drake progressive front coils

-       Heater rebuilt

-       Edelbrock racing water pump

-       Upgraded headlights and new harness with relays for direct battery power

-       Shelby Gt350 fiberglass hood reproduction

-       JEGS racing seats (front), original rear; front pony bench seats convey with purchase, great condition, no obvious wear; original carpet also conveys, decent condition

-       New 3-point seatbelts (front) and lap belts (rear)

-       Massive custom audio system with Blue Tooth, all hidden from view (front and rear amps, front and rear speakers, trunk-based subwoofer mounted to rear seat, head unit, capacitor; Rockville/Pioneer)

-       Dynamat under interior carpet and seats, and in trunk

-       Carpet and mats

-       Wood period-correct Shelby repro steering wheel

-      Upgraded headlights with new wiring harness (including relays for full battery power)



-       Dash gauges and other electrical components, interior lights, etc. are in good working order except the steering wheel horn button (actual horns are new)

-       66k miles at engine swap (unclear whether it was clocked); 88k now

-       Tires are almost new (BFGs rear, Pirelli front) 

-       Glass is all in good condition

-       Body shows signs of wear, including some rust spots and bondo hairline cracks. Tub was reinforced with aluminum panels, body rivets and body panel adhesive. I expect that a professional body shop will want to replace one or more panels. The quote I received for a Barret Jackson-ready body repair and paint/clear was close to 11k; less will definitely get it done in great style as well. It looks amazing as-is but you will see the age up close. Driver side has some mismatched paint where body work was done.

-       Electrical power is 100% steady (90a alternator)

-       I have NOT yet added air conditioning or power steering (never needed them)

-       MANY other small things, I have a complete list.

-    Sold as-is, please conduct a thorough inspection and ask any questions you like.

Options (free):

- I have 4 mag wheels and tires you can have. They appear to be original. They are not in awesome condition but look cool. You can have them if you want them.

- I have the original front bench ("pony") seat, and it's in great condition. All yours. It's bulky and heavy.

- I have lots of original parts I've pulled off and replaced, as well as a good medium box or two of random new parts, hardware, etc.

- I have an expensive waterproof car cover you can have. It's in good shape.

What's next?

- There is a draw on the battery. I'm not an electrician and have simply kept it on a trickle charger when not in use over the winter. 

- The other electrical components work great, so I'm not sure where the issue is.

- Body work, that would really be my next step. A simple sand and repaint would go a long way, but a top-level job would set it off.

- I always wanted electronic power assist steering but never got to it. 

- Now that the big drive train jobs are done, I'd have someone go through it and make sure everything's lined up, tight, lubed, etc. 

- Exhaust squeaks a little at stop lights, as it hangers aren't tight enough at some point along the way. Everyone else just thinks it sounds amazing, but I notice.

Auction Instructions:

-  Please ask me all questions you have PRIOR to the close of the auction. I'm happy to take any additional photos and videos you'd like, the car is in my driveway, so it's no problem. Please ask any questions you have that will make a difference in whether or not you will go through with the purchase. 

- If you want to have an independent mechanic inspect the vehicle, no problem, happy to facilitate. But please have it done prior to the end of the auction. Lemon Squad and others are very responsive. 

- Once the auction closes, it's too late to start picking apart the car and negotiating price. If that's what you would like to do, let's do it prior to the end of the auction. If we come to an agreement prior to the close of the auction, I'm perfectly happy to end it early.

- Once you've won the auction, congratulations! You are the new owner, and I'll make sure everything's ready when you come (or send a driver) to pick up your new car.

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