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1913 Ford Model T

Sale price: $12,600.00 make an offer

Car location: Gerrardstown, West Virginia, United States

Sale type: Fixed price listing

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1913 Ford Model T for sale

Current customer rating: current rating for this car(2.15) based on 53 votes
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Vehicle Details

READ EVERY WORD IN THIS LISTING BEFORE PLACING A BID!!! Up for auction is an excellent 1913 Ford Model T Touring car. The history of this car is known back to 1954. I've owned it for many years and it's time for me to pass it along to someone else. This is an incredibly low-mileage car with just under 21,000 miles. I believe this to be correct because all the things on a car that are worn, are not worn, but rather in like-new condition. The lettered pedals tell the story too. They show very little wear. When I got the car, it hadn't been used for years. So, I set about going through it and fixing what needed to be fixed to make it road worthy. DRIVETRAIN: The differential was removed and disassembled and rebuilt with bronze thrust washers. I put a new spool bearing and race assembly in it along with a new bronze sleeve up at the U-Joint. The U-joint is a NOS replacement too. The engine runs great and runs fine on magneto also. It has great compression and starts rather easy. I have the original Model S carburetor that came with it but currently have a Model G on the car for easier starting and better performance. This car has a cast-iron intake manifold and that is the correct one for this car. It is a late 1913 and the manifold is the same shape as the aluminum ones. All of the correct items are there - aluminum hogs head with lettered pedals, brass hub fan (that is like brand new) brass oil fill cap - all original to the car. The tires on the car are in excellent shape and hold air for years before needing any. The wheels are the original wood but they don't click or make noise and are good.INTERIOR & TOP:I replaced the seats and top about 4 years ago with kits from Classtiques. I installed the high-dollar leather in this car because most 1913 cars had leather in them so that is what this car got. I did the work myself and it looks great and not wrinkled like so many poor installations. I also installed the new top with roll-up curtain. It looks great and stretched out very nice and even. I took my time and spent about 3 months doing the top and interior job. BRASS:The brass on the car is all 100% correct, right down to the 1913-only hub caps. The only thing that is a replacement is the radiator. It's an original round-tube unit, but it's from a 1916 car. This is actually an improvement because the 16 radiators had a brace under the lower tank soldered in place and provided additional strength. I do have the original 1913 unit to go along with the car, but it is partially disassembled. Now, regarding the brass. I hate polishing. So, I decided to clear the brass so you won't have to polish anything but the radiator and steering box. I even coated the murphy fasteners, screws, - you name it. Regarding the coating, I DID NOT use junk spray-can clear from the hardware store. I researched very thoroughly and duplicated the process that historical hotels use for restoring their brass hand rails and other decorative accents. The solution is called protecta-clear. It's very expensive and there is an entire process for polishing, cleaning , neutralizing, and applying the coating. Restoring the brass also took several months, but the results are bullet-proof and you wont' be disappointed. I had a Maxwell that had this coating on the brass and it had been on for 35 years and still looked superb. Most likely, you will never have to do anything to it in your lifetime.BODY:The body still has all the original panels and in fact, the hood still has the original paint on the under side. The paint job is about 45 years old, and while it is far from perfect, it still looks good from 5 feet away. Make no mistake, this is an amateur paint job, but it does look pretty decent for a tour car. This car was never dark blue like so many 1913 cars. This one has always been black. There was plenty of black under the seats when I did the upholstery so it's definitely a black T.MISC:The coil box on the car is a replacement KW box that uses standard Ford coils. This is handy and much less expensive than the original KW unit. I built this box up not long after I got it because the original box was missing. This car had a wood box on it from teh factory because when I took the 1918 box off, you could see the metal bracket imprints on the wood firewall. So I built a KW unit for it and restored it using Laurel Mountain cherry stain. The gas lights were electrified sometime back in the day. I left them as is because it's handy. Both reflector mirrors in the lights are cracked and should be replaced, but with the Dillon lenses, you can't see the bad reflectors. I also replaced the windshield Overall, this is a great car with very minimal work required. You could pretty much register and tag the car, and start touring. The only thing the car needs is some fresh lubrication and a decent battery since the one in it is very old and needs to be charged once a months or so. But it will get you started for sure. CAR TITLE: The title is clear but it is still in the name of the estate owner that it came from. I have a notarized bill of sale from the executors of the estate, along with a death certificate of the owner. Everything is there to do the transfer. This will be up to you. I am not going to title it in my name. The guy I got the car from back in 2012 is very helpful and will help you with anything regarding the title should it be necessary. I can give you his contact information should it be necessary. TERMS:I communicate ONLY through ebay messenger. I do not have any ebay or ebay motor's apps or any fancy communication apps. So communicate with me through this auction by clicking the "contact seller" button. I will respond very quickly and will answer every question you want to ask. I can also send you additional pics if you'd like. This is an auction. If you end the auction or are the winning bidder, you will be expected to complete the transaction. ALSO, the time for asking questions and making decisions is BEFORE the auction ends, not after. Payment is cash on pickup or by wire transfer within 7 days of auction end. The car can stay here for up to 30 days while you make transportation arrangements, but the car must be paid for in full within 7 days of the auction end regardless of what you do. ALSO, AND THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT... I live on in the mountains of West Virginia, about 2 hours west of Washington DC. It is rugged here and you cannot get a semi-tractor trailer up my driveway. A pickup truck with a standard car trailer can come up here fine, but don't expect to send some big rig or double length trailer up here. It won't fit. If all you can arrange is a big rig, then I will drive the car out to the end of our dirt road where he can turn around and we will load there, but this means that COMMUNICATION IS PARAMOUNT. So expect to communicate with me frequently and quickly. Also, at the end of the auction, please message me right away with your intentions for payment and pickup and we will get the ball rolling. I think that about does it. Good luck and and don't hesitate to ask any questions!

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