Classic Cars / Franklin / Car for sale

1966 Ford Mustang

Sale price: $23,000.00 make an offer

Sale type: Fixed price listing

Technical specifications, photos and description:

Year:
1966
Mileage:
1,000
Engine:
289 cui V8
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1966 Ford Mustang for sale

Current customer rating: current rating for this car(2) based on 445 votes

Selling a beautiful award winning 1966 Mustang. located in Texarkana Texas. that has gone through a complete restoration. This car has been painted a an amazing Metallic Black with black interior and only has about 1. 00 miles on it since completion of the restoration. I only drive it to car shows and the occasional "Sunday Drive".  I have included as many pictures that I think are the best for this car and I even have a video. To see the video. go to You Tube and type in fourty4bravo in the search bar.   If that does not work. please IM me and I will send you a direct link.

 

TITLE IS IN HAND AND IS FREE AND CLEAR OF ANY LEANS OR SALVAGE.

Payment is expected to be paid in full within 72 hours after the close of the auction along with a $1. 00 down payment within 24 hrs of the auction close. I accept Pay Pal. Cashier Check from a notable bank and this check must be cleared prior to picking up the car. I also take. and would much rather take cash in person. If you wish to discuss payment prior to the close of the auction. please IM me directly. I prefer not to do pay pal so if there is a way that will work for you. I will discount you half of the fees that I would have had to pay for pay pal.

I have added the "buy it now price" and lowered my "reserve". which is lower than my "buy it now" 

I also reserve the right to end this auction if the car sold locally.

Buyer is responsible for pick up and shipping of the vehicle.

There are only a couple of things left to be done to the car. a new Windshield wiper switch and wire harness. Windshield washer pump and harness and a parking break cables.

 I have kept as much as I could on all receipts of all the parts that I have purchased for this car and I plan on forwarding those to the winning buyer so you have a strong reference point in case something breaks. I will also include the Spare tire I have. car cover and as listed below. I will include the rear sway bar kit that has not been installed. I could only post so many pics so If you want pics of those items. please IM me. Also. there is only one set of keys for this ca rand I will not include the license plate. This is an original 1966 NC plate and I will be keeping it as an memento 

 

The following is as much detail that I can stand to write on this car. It is a bit lengthy but I want you know as much as you can. If you wish to contact me on the car. please IM me and I will send you my phone number.

 

ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION

This is the original 289cu in block from the car but has gone through a full rebuild. After tear down. it was sent to the machine shop. cleaned. bored . 030” over to stock and the deck was machined down within 0. 005” to the deck. New flat top pistons with valve relief cut outs were installed with all new rings. bearings and seals. I installed the Eddlebrock E-Street Top end kit which included Aluminum heads (with Summit Racing Brand 1:6 roller rockers). Performer Series Intake. new timing gears and chain along with Cam. All the stats can be found their website. I would include a link but Ebay does not allow that. and they claim HP output to be 321HP. During the build we decided to go with a Holly double pumper 650CFM carb that has mechanical secondaries to prevent many issues that vacuum secondaries give. The entire ignition system is from Pertronix to include the Flame Thrower Distributor and coil. along with Pertronix Custom Length Spark Plug Wires. To finish up the engine. I installed Scott Drake Y headers that feed dual Magna flow 30 series. I changed out the rear valance with a GT Valance so the exhaust comes out of the rear valance instead of underneath and it has the correct GT louvered exhaust tips.

This car originally had the Automatic C4 3-speed Transmission but it was so worn out. I couldn't even power brake and spin the tires out with the new engine. I decided to convert over to a 4 speed manual. I found one that came out of a 1965 Mustang but it was totally shot so I drove it over to Dan Williams in Franklin NC. You can Google him and his site is TOPLOADER TRANSMISSIONS and has been building these for over 40 years and built me a an amazing 4 speed. He installed all new bearings. replaced two gears and put race grade syncros. I also did some research and found out that I could use the bell housing. flywheel and clutch set up out of the 1960s Broncos. The reason I decided on this was that the Broncos use an 11” set up over the Mustangs 9. 5” clutch and fly wheel. This was a tight squeeze but fits nicely with a very minor mod to the passenger header. I installed a Hurst Shifter kit that looks and shifts amazing.

HEATING AND COOLING

The entire heating and cooling system of the car has all been re-done. I am only talking about the heater of the car and cooling of the engine. THIS CAR DOES NOT HAVE A/C. The original 2 core radiator has been replaced with an aluminum 3 core along with electric fan set up. All new hoses have been installed even to the heater core. The entire heater box has been replaced. along with the heater core and blower motor. The engine has a 160 degree thermostat and the system runs beautifully but the only down side to that is during the winter. it takes a bit longer to warm up the interior of the car.

ELECTRICAL

ALL WIRING HAS BEEN Fixed. All wiring is original to the car. it has been removed entirely. cleaned. repaired and new connectors where needed. I installed relay systems to ensure that the newer style halogen head lights are getting proper power and therefore this car does not do the whole thing where the lights pulsate to the beat of the engine at idle. Tail lights have been properly upgraded to LED and proper resistors have been added to ensure power balance in the car. All interior lights have been replaced by LED lights except the bulb for the Tachometer. I could not find a LED for this. There is not really much more on this to say besides what I mentioned prior that a new Wiper Switch and wire harness will be needed

BRAKES AND TIRES

 This Car does not have power brakes but has gone through an entire brake system rebuild. Safety was my primary concern with this build. Including converting the rear brakes from drums to disc. I also replaced all brake lines and rebuilt the front calipers. The disc have been changed from standard to drilled and slotted disc with all ceramic pads. The original single reservoir master cylinder was replaced with a dual reservoir. This allows the front and rear brake systems to be separate which is crucial in case of brake failure. I also included a proportioning valve fro the rear brakes so you can manage the stopping power to the rear wheels.

16 “American racing rims with 225/55R/16 Good Year Fierce Instinct VRs

REAR END

The 8” rear axle of the car came with 2:80 gears on a open carrier (one wheel wonder) so it went through a complete restoration to include sandblasting and new paint. All new bearings. seals and Yukon brand 3:25 ratio Ring and pinion mounted on a Yukon Posi-Lock. The axles are 31 spline.

The entire Rear End Suspension has been rebuilt as well. The original leaf springs were replaced with 1” lowering springs with new bushings and hardware. New shocks along with Concourse Correct Traction Bars were also installed. I purchased a Rear GT Sway Bar kit but I have not installed it yet due to time constraints. This kit will be included with the car. The only thing that will need to be done prior to installations is that you must re-route the drivers side tail pipe to allow clearance for the sway bar. This is a very common requirement for these Mustangs to do this upgrade. Lastly. I had tie down loops cut out by CNC Water Jet and welded to the Axle Plates. This allows you to safely tie the car down to a trailer without worrying about damage to brake lies.

FRONT END

The front end has gone through a complete rebuild to include ball joint. upper and lower control arm bushing. inner and outer tie-rod ends and torsion bar bushings. Originally the car had a stock front sway bar but I changed it out to the GT variant that is 1” Diameter compared to the stock 3/4” diameter sway bar. Then I complemented this upgrade by installing a Monte Carlo Bar. Front springs were replaced with 2” drop sport springs but when I moved to Texas. I had to install 1” Polypropylene spacers to prevent rubbing due to the poor roads here. This car does not have power steering and was in poor shape so I sent it off to have it rebuilt and now it turns like a dream with absolutely no slop. It is the standard 19:1 ratio gear box.  Needless to say. this car handles beautifully and that is not something you hear much about these old Mustangs.

INTERIOR

I have worked very hard ensuring that every part of this car was done correctly. especially the interior. Everything from the Dash Mat to the rear deck has been redone or replaced. Along with new seat covers. front and rear. I installed a matching leather headliner. When replacing the front dash. I found some great videos on how to restore a dash cluster by polishing the cluster glass to crystal clear to painting the needles and properly cleaning  the gauges and this cluster looks amazing now. But prior to putting the new dash mat and cluster. I had to repair the air vents. These are prone to leaking and very hard to get to. I installed these ABS plastic vents that prevent any future rust and leaks under the dash that will ruin carpet. Before installing the new carpet. I installed dyno mat on the entire interior that was accessible. This has dramatically decreased heat and road noise. To complement the new carpet. I put in beautiful Mustang Pony floor mats and finished it all off with new chrome seat trim. door sills and seat belts. Besides looking great. she sounds great inside too. This was done by installing a Kenwood Head Deck. replacing the front kick panels with kick panels that allow for front speakers. I put in 5” Keenwoods for the front and Sony 6x9s in the rear and a Punch 12” Sub woofer powered by a 400 watt amp.  

Also published at eBay.com

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