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1962 Jaguar E-Type XKE Coupe

Sale price: $40,680.00 make an offer
Last update: 02.06.2013

Price trends for this listing: $40,656.00

Car location: Chester, Vermont, United States
Sale type: Fixed price listing

Technical specifications, photos and description:

Year: 1962
Type: coupe
Color: Green
Mileage: 134,500
Engine: 4.2 liter
Transmission: manual
Trim: Coupe
Interior Color: Black
Vehicle Title: Clear
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1962 Jaguar E-Type XKE Coupe for sale

Current customer rating: current rating for this car (2.5) based on 319 votes
1962 Jaguar E-Type XKE Coupe Photo
  • 1962 Jaguar E-Type XKE Coupe
  • 1962 Jaguar E-Type XKE Coupe
  • 1962 Jaguar E-Type XKE Coupe
  • 1962 Jaguar E-Type XKE Coupe

For sale is a 1962 Jaguar E Type FHC.    According to the JDHT Heritage Certificate. the car was built on November 26. 1962 and delivered to Jaguar Cars. New York.    It was originally Carmen Red and is now green.    I have owned it for seven years.   It is a very dependable driver. not a show car.    Over 60 pictures can be found at http://s1217. photobucket. com/user/webmotors/slideshow/1962%20Jaguar%20E-Type  Here is what I know about it:


I purchased it from a son who inherited it from his father.   It started out as a father/son restoration project.   The father ran a body shop in Rhode Island where it was painted in approximately 1992.   (I have photos of the work in progress. )  They did the interior shortly after that.    Before the mechanicals were completed. the father passed away and the car sat in a garage from about 1994 until I purchased it.   The son was going to finish the restoration. but never got to it.


Since then. nearly all mechanicals have been rebuilt including brakes. engine. transmission. differential and rear suspension.    I have put about 9-10K miles on the car since.  


The following has been done and I have all the receipts:

Engine -  4. 2 liter - block no. 7E14997 (not orig. 3. 8)

Block decked. cylinders re-sleeved and bored to standard size

9:1 pistons. rings and pins

Compression recently tested - average 165 PSI. with lowest 162 and highest 169

Hot oil pressure in the low 40's at idle. 60 PSI at speed

Doesn't overheat

Crank magna-fluxed and reground. new rod. main and camshaft bearings

Cam followers. valves. valve guides. springs and seals

Cam chains. idler shaft. chain adjuster and guides

Oil pump. pressure switch. crank damper. water pump. header tank. new hoses. thermostat. span >   Howe Racing aluminum radiator. Cool Cat fan

Pertronix electronic distributor ( I have original fan. water pump and distributor)

Coil. spark plug and wires. voltage stabilizer

Rebuilt carburetors

Engine mounts




Dismantled. inspected. new counter-shaft. bearings replaced as needed

New clutch. pressure plate. pilot bearing. throw-out bearing

Flywheel surfaced and balanced with pressure plate

New clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder



Removed and inspected rear suspension. Bushings. sleeves. seals and bearings replaced as needed

All new universal joints (axles and driveshaft)

Koni coil-over rear shocks. Koni front shocks

Rear splined hubs

IRS mounts

Ball joints

Steering rack mounts

Steering column bushes


Differential - 3. 31:1 ratio

Cleaned. replaced seals and bearings as needed

Replaced one axle yoke



New bellows and check valve for power brake unit

New master cylinder

Rebuilt front and rear calipers

New front rotors and pads

New rear pads

Brake lines



The previous owner put a in a complete new interior.   Black leather. black carpet and headliner.   It's in very good shape.   Except for the clock. all gauges and lights work.   For some reason. when the car sits in the sun with the windows up. the cockpit heat causes the tachometer to temporarily get ‘sticky'.    (Map light and radio are missing)

New lap belts. rubber floor mats

New heater motor



Body. Glass. Chrome

What needs attention is the body and paintwork.   While it looks pretty good from 25 feet or so. up close there are many small chips. dings and scratches.   Most came from when the car was in storage in the former owner's garage for 15+ years.   There are 3 small dimples on the bonnet. One from it being closed with a tool left on the motor (not by me!) or from the former owner's grandson trying to jack the car up from under the radiator support!  As noted above. the body work and paint was done over 20 years ago and at the time. I think they glassed around the rear wheel arches and there is some filler in the rockers.     Obviously. when the car is repainted. this should be sorted out first.    The floor also has a patch behind the driver's side foot well.  There were apparently some adhesion issues between the paint layers because it separated in some spots on the bonnet and has bumpy spots on the roof. but no evidence of rust causing it.   Regardless. the paint has held up very well given how long ago it was done.   I have some of the original left over for touch-ups.   You should inspect it yourself or have it done. because the photos never show everything.    This is a driver and I like it the way it is. because I don't worry about stone chips or getting a bit of dirt on it.  

Spare wheel and tire. but no tool kit 

Chrome is mostly quite good. but not perfect.

Glass is original Triplex and is average to good except the rear glass and passenger side window have some scratches.  

Vredestein Sprint Classic 205/70-15 tires - like new

15” X 5” chrome wire wheels - they were new when I got the car and present very well.


Finally. Vermont is a non-title state for old cars. but I have a current registration.    Please check with your state about registration requirements before bidding.

That's about it.   Please feel free to email with any questions.   You can also email a phone number with a good time to call and I'll get in touch to answer any questions.   Thanks for looking!

(The car is for sale locally and I reserve the right to end the listing early)


On Jun-01-13 at 11:12:44 PDT. seller added the following information:

I forgot a couple of things:  The windshield washers don't work. but glass reservoir is there.   Also. the springs in the thumb buttons on the door handles are getting weak and the buttons don't always pop out all the way after use. so if you slam the doors too hard. nbsp;they don't fully latch.   Closing them gently works perfectly.  

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